Here are some benefits to having gutters on your home:

• They guide the rainwater off of your roof and away from your home.

• Keep the water from settling around that foundation of your home.

• Prevents damage to your roof, soffit, fascia and exterior trim and paint.

• Prohibits water from entering into your interior walls and basement or causing foundation defects.

What Can Occur Without Gutters

Damage will occur once water has penetrated the foundation or walls of your home. This can become a major problem and can be quite costly. This type of damage happens when there are no gutters, gutters are damaged, or the downspouts are not working as intended or placed in a bad location. Water damage to your foundation can cause settling and cracking of the walls and foundation and mold growth.  Mold is not only hard to get rid of, but can cause serious health problems for you and your family. Sometimes mold is not detected until a health condition has already developed.

Troubleshooting

If you have recently installed new gutters in your home and you still are seeing some damage to the foundation, landscaping/flower beds, or basement, then you should inspect the gutters and downspouts looking for any damage or leaks. If the caulking needs to be replaced you should use a wire brush to remove the old caulk. Then apply a new caulk to all necessary pieces; a silicone caulk works well.

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Arrowhead Roofing gives FREE ESTIMATES.  If you are located in the path of the recent storms and need help, call us today.  We will not use high pressure sales techniques to get you to sign our contracts.

Call ARROWHEAD for all your roofing needs.  We provide FREE ESTIMATES and FREE STORM DAMAGE ASSESSMENTS.

If you are interested and have the experience and skills required, please go to our website and complete the online employment application and you will be contacted immediately if your work history meets our requirements.

Allow the paint to dry for at least 4 hours, or overnight.

Select an acrylic paint color that contrasts nicely with the background color.

Prepare and tint a glaze with the acrylic paint you’ve chosen to create your desired glaze color.

Pour the tinted glaze into a roller tray.

Decide what type of faux finish you’d like for the room. Sponging and ragging on are the easiest to do and are best for bumpy or irregular walls; dragging and stippling are more difficult and require a smooth wall surface.

Practice the technique you’ve chosen on a painted piece of cardboard, wood or drywall until you’re able to produce the desired effect.  You can get great ideas for your finish from the internet, magazines or your local paint store.

Apply the tinted glaze to the wall using the materials and technique appropriate to the faux finish you’ve selected,

NOTE:  It’s important to use a glaze specifically designed for faux finishes – it helps provide a sense of translucence and depth. Flat paints just look flat.

Try one of the easier techniques such as sponging or ragging on if this is your first faux painting project.

Have adequate ventilation while you’re painting and while paint is drying.

Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands and make washing up easier.

Use caution when working on a ladder. Make sure it’s stable before climbing on.

Keep paint and paint products out of the reach of children.

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Q: What is the primary purpose of the ENERGY STAR® program?
A: The purpose is to recognize products and services that have been found to be energy efficient in an easily recognizable way through the use of the ENERGY STAR® logo on such products and services and helps guide the consumer in their buying choices. Only products that have met guidelines established by the EPA for the ENERGY STAR® program and whose companies have become ENERGY STAR® partners may use the logo

Q: Are roof products the only products that are part of the ENERGY STAR® program?
A: No. The ENERGY STAR® Program is a program that can involve many products consumers commonly use that are designed to be more energy efficient than other products of the same type. For example, appliances that use less energy to operate, may qualify as products that can carry the ENERGY STAR® logo.

Q: How are roof products considered to be energy efficient
A: The EPA has determined that highly reflective roofs on low slope (2:12 slopes or less) roofs can save on cooling costs.

Q: Has ENERGY STAR® created guidelines for determining whether a low slope roofing product is reflective or not?
A: Yes. They are composed of reflectivity testing per ASTM E903 or ASTM C1549. Additionally,

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This is different from a cool roof strategy which reflects solar energy before it heats the roof. Although a cool roof has been proven to be more effective, a radiant barrier can be a less expensive retrofit.

Radiant barriers can also reduce indoor heat losses through the ceiling in the winter.

On residential homes radiant barrier is typically installed one of two ways: Radiant Barrier Decking or Radiant Barrier Attic Foil.

Radiant Barrier Decking is made by laminating a highly reflective piece of aluminum foil to one side of OSB board or plywood. The foil side will face the attic which creates the required air space. It is important to note that if the structure is located in a humid area, the radiant barrier should be perforated to ensure proper passage of moisture. Often pre-laminated radiant barrier sheathing will have vapor barrier properties because the lamination adhesive will fill in the perforations. It is often better to use a perforated, reflective radiant barrier and staple it to the roof decking before installing it on the rafters

Radiant Barrier Attic Foil is installed inside the attic. This product is a tarp-type material with a layer of aluminum foil laminated on both sides to create a double-sided radiant barrier. The radiant barrier foil material can be either stapled to the bottom of the roof rafters or laid out over the existing insulation. Both methods provide the required air space. If put over existing insulation, care must be taken to insure moisture is not trapped in the insulation by using a perforated product that is NOT a vapor barrier (in a heating climate, i.e., when the house normally is warmer than the ambient air). In hot humid climates a non-perforated (vapor barrier) type radiant barrier is NEVER recommended in the interior of the structure. The ONLY appropriate placement of a vapor barrier type radiant barrier in hot humid climates in on the outside of the exterior sheathing (hot side of the insulation).

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• Illinois-44,000 claims, average cost per claim $8,150
• Texas-36,000 claims, average cost per claim $9,427
• Georgia-23,000 claims, average cost per claim $6,362
• Oklahoma-21,000 claims, average cost per claim $13,893
• Ohio-20,000 claims, average cost per claim $8,571

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• Check your roofing for needed repairs before the springs rains start.
• Check for open seams, blisters or bald areas on flat roofs.
• Check flashings on roof, sidewalls and window areas.
• Check facia, soffit and walls for damaged areas or pealing paint.
• Check caulking around showers, bathtubs, sinks and toilets.
• Check interior painting and make a list of touchups or repairs needed.
• Check smoke alarm and carbon monoxide detectors.  Keep fresh batteries installed.
• Check sprinkler systems and make a list for spring flower planting.
• Check insurance policies for fire, water and wind. Get properly covered if needed.

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